• Yuima Nakazato Couture Spring 2018

    8 monthes ago - By WWD

    Ground control to Major Tom, what should we wear for interstellar travel? Yuima Nakazato turned to the Space Age as he considers how today's clothing production technologies can be used to midwife its future. Where others have taken the 3-D printing or textile evolution route, modular components is where the Japanese designer is laying his ground work.
    This season, he collected recycled materials from airbags, parachutes and other protective gear, and laser-cut them into puzzle-size pieces. Assembled without the use of a sewing machine, these elements can be easily recomposed. On a...
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  • Celia Kritharioti Couture Spring 2018

    8 monthes ago - By WWD

    A Parisian palace hotel is just the place to go for a sugar hit - pastel macarons at teatime. For spring, Celia Kritharioti pushed the afternoon sugar high to new heights, sending her spirited creations down a white carpet runway in an intimate salon of the Ritz. Organza gowns in pale pinks and baby blues trailed behind their models while lacy minidresses were paired with matching boots, go-go style but with spiked heels. Tulle ruffles came in stacks of layers, forming a cape with a train, in one instance. There was also a rendition of the cat suit - sheer white and decorated with sequins...
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  • Givenchy Couture Spring 2018

    8 monthes ago - By WWD

    First Day Syndrome. Every employed person experiences it at least once. Yet few can imagine what it's like for the new boss to show up at the workplace knowing - not fearing or wondering but knowing - that all of your reports know more about the job than you do. Such is the plight of the first-time couturier charged with the leadership of long-tenured, highly skilled, highly specialized craftspeople, many artists in their own right.
    If Clare Waight Keller harbored any apprehensions as she took charge of Givenchy's haute ateliers, she worked through them efficiently, in time to deliver a...
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  • Hair at Chanel Spring 2018 Couture: Ponytails and Veils

    8 monthes ago - By Allure

    Hairstylist Sam McKnight creates the ultimate cool-girl hairdo at Chanel's Spring 2018 Haute Couture show.
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  • Armani Privé Couture Spring 2018

    8 monthes ago - By WWD

    While Paris can be glorious under rain - monuments and plane trees reflected in puddles and dark sidewalks - the weather has been exceptionally damp and dreary during couture. At least one man finds overcast skies inspiring: Giorgio Armani, who called his spring couture show “Clouds.”
    Excepting the sauna-like temperature, his show venue was bright and airy - the white, backlit walls bore faint smudges of blue, red and gray reminiscent of blurred, painterly skies. The same light spirit infected many of the collection's dresses, dappled with watercolor prints and gleaming textures.
    In the...
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  • Giovanni Bedin Couture Spring 2018

    8 monthes ago - By WWD

    For his spring couture collection, Giovanni Bedin paid homage to simple, every day designs, along with their everyday materials, taking them apart and rebuilding them as intricate, geometrical dresses - the short kind.
    Sources for this endeavor? Venetian gondolier's T-shirts and the matelot overcoats worn by fishermen on France's Brittany coast.
    Using striped fabric, he built a lineup of very short dresses taking strips of the cloth and patching them together in intricate, geometric patterns that formed a structure to frame the body. Vertical rows of jersey cloth were spliced with...
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  • Alexis Mabille Couture Spring 2018

    8 monthes ago - By WWD

    “The most beautiful trait is to be yourself and own it,” Alexis Mabille's show notes declared.
    The designer has been nothing if not consistent in his aesthetic since founding his label just over a decade ago. This season, he decided to forgo a theme - always an artificial construct at best - and just follow his instinct.
    “I didn't want to restrain myself at all. I did what I felt like,” he explained backstage. “Lots of volume, lots of color to begin with. Afterward, it moved to scintillating blacks in order to highlight the cut, because sometimes the color and the embroidery makes you...
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  • Rami Kadi Couture Spring 2018

    8 monthes ago - By WWD

    For the customer who wants the next level in personalization, Rami Kadi offers just the thing. Not only are his designs made to fit, but they were made with ticker-tape embroideries to put one's own details in view.
    “Many of my clients asked me to embroider their names on their bridal veils, or even hashtags, because everyone is on social media these days,” he said, pointing out the black bands were all detachable. On the silhouettes showcased at Le Meurice, these read RKSS18, COUTURESS18 and RAMIKADI while a table displayed more options such as METOO, WHYWEWEARBLACK but also PROVOKE and...
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