• Capucci RTW Spring 2019

    2 monthes ago - By WWD

    Capucci is once again without a creative director, having parted ways with Mario Dice after just four seasons. The label's owner, businesswoman and art patron Paola Santarelli, said the house would be putting the accent on daywear as it seeks to expand into Asia and the Middle East.
    A case in point: a capsule collection of 10 pieces in water-repellent technical taffeta in the label's signature jewel tones - including a dress, jacket and trench - that fit into tiny matching pouches fastened with a jeweled pin.
    The evening portion was equally travel-friendly, with lightweight pleated silk...
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  • Iceberg RTW Spring 2019

    2 monthes ago - By WWD

    This high-energy collection, inspired by the Gerani family's classic car and motorcycle collection, was filled with shiny surfaces, searing soapbox colors, logos, stripes and plays on proportion - yet brand's creative director James Long didn't let the petrol fumes go to his head. The collection was cool and commercial, with some of the glam front-row guests wearing black knee-high boots with colored stripes and Iceberg logos zooming up the side, or sweaters screaming Iceberg in neon. “This is a collection for real women; There is a reality to what I do,” said Long.
    Colored sequins spilled...
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  • Au Jour Le Jour RTW Spring 2019

    2 monthes ago - By WWD

    Shifting from a runway show to a presentation was a smart move for Au Jour Le Jour, which delivered a more cohesive lineup.
    In keeping with one of the biggest trends of the season so far, the Eighties served as source of inspiration. In particular, Mirko Fontana and Diego Marquez focused on the evening shows broadcasted on Italian public TV channels in that decade. Cue flamboyant cocktail and eveningwear.
    The silhouettes were hinged on big shoulders, metallic accents and an overall maximalistic approach. Macro brooches decorated a one-shoulder black frock with a red draped detail on the...
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  • Salvatore Ferragamo RTW Spring 2019

    2 monthes ago - By WWD

    Paul Andrew and Guillaume Meilland, Ferragamo's respective women's and men's creative directors, are two lovely, incredibly charming guys. Yet their spring show was akin to a dinner party thrown by fabulous, charismatic hosts whose spaghetti was served woefully overcooked.
    Andrew has been at the brand for two years, though spring was only his second time steering the ready-to-wear as well as the accessories. During a preview a few days before the show, he was candid about his expertise being in shoes, not clothes and there's a learning curve. To that end, he was wise to start designing...
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  • Vionnet RTW Spring 2019

    2 monthes ago - By WWD

    Change is afoot at Vionnet. The brand skipped the runway this season in favor of a presentation at the art-filled Milanese home of owner and creative director Goga Ashkenazi, who said she was rethinking its model.
    “We were completely Made in Italy, but we're trying to be more globalized. We are taking some production partners, who are going to be also retail partners, that are going to be spreading Vionnet a little bit more - but right now we are going through a major, major restructuring,” she said.
    In what she dubbed an “art performance,” a cast comprising models, artists and two pairs...
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