• Jil Sander Men's Spring 2019

    4 monthes ago - By WWD

    Lucie and Luke Meier are looking to take the headache out of dressing. Their spring men's collection for Jil Sander was based on the concept of uniforms, yet still left plenty of room for self-expression.
    The duo worked spare silhouettes, weaving in sporty separates, like terrific crinkled nylon jackets and coats with zipper or snap details, and more tailored options, including a black Bermuda short suit with a detachable kilt panel. Long shirts were either collarless or funnel-necked, underscoring the minimal vibe.
    Texture came via special washes and weaves, as well as the stretchy...
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  • Paul Smith Men's Spring 2019

    4 monthes ago - By WWD

    There's at least one men's wear designer in Paris who won't be jumping on the streetwear bandwagon: Paul Smith says he's sticking with tailoring, even as other brands court Millennial customers with more casual offerings.
    “There's not a trainer in this whole show,” the British designer gleefully stated backstage before the show. Instead, Smith revisited his archives to play with the proportions of suits, which were shown on both men and women, in a nod to the gender-fluid trend that has been flooding the catwalks.
    With broad padded shoulders and roomy pants, suit shapes harked back to the...
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  • Linder Men's Spring 2019

    4 monthes ago - By WWD

    In his second solo outing for Linder's men's collection, Kirk Millar continued the personal narrative he began for fall (as a reminder, the theme then was growing up gay and coming out), expressing the maturing of relationships and commitment.
    Modernized guayabera wedding shirts and ecru denim emboldened with a bright orange china print - symbolic of the trousseau - on cropped button-front jeans and a dolman-sleeved jacket, for example, were among the highlights in this bold collection.
    Elsewhere, Millar channeled references to his Dutch lineage, picking out motifs from his...
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  • Lanvin Men's Spring 2019

    4 monthes ago - By WWD

    “I really felt the need this to elevate; elevate clothes into fashion,” said Lucas Ossendrijver who, like the rest of us, is suffering from streetwear fatigue.
    The designer took opposites - night and day, hard and soft, back and front, black and color - and made them come together to create hybrids, things that fall somewhere in-between.
    “It's not street, it's not couture, and in the end, it's all wearable,” said the designer in a preview of the collection.
    Too right.
    The strange mixes of color were super-cool, like on one of the opening looks pairing an oversized chocolate tuxedo - its...
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  • Y-3 Men's Spring 2019

    4 monthes ago - By WWD

    Yohji Yamamoto's obsession with the philosophy of “air between the body” was the main theme here, with a focus on light-as-air garments, presented on a runway running through one of the halls of Les Arts Décoratifs, with a row of upturned silver photographer's umbrellas overhead.
    “We started to think about the very lightest fabrics. We have the lightest Gore-Tex fabrics ever made; Adizero fabrics, which we use for athletes but put into Yohji's cutting, garments in a new context,” said Nic Galway, Adidas Originals' global senior vice president of design, backstage before the show.
    The...
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  • Balmain Men's Spring 2019

    4 monthes ago - By WWD

    Olivier Rousteing laid his heart bare with a collection about his childhood obsessions - Michael Jackson and the American dream, Serge Gainsbourg and French style. He also trumpeted diversity in men's wear and that message came through loud and clear: The collection was 80 looks long, and included a small capsule of shimmery and striped styles from the Women's Episode Collection, a new runway companion for the men's.
    The collection, which Rousteing described as “Serge Gainsbourg and Michael Jackson having a talk,” and “preppy goes crazy,” also reflected a new strategy at the house. Earlier...
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